Welt shoe and method of making same



April 12, 1938'. I H. L. SUTCLIFFE 2,113,954

' WELT SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME I Filed April :50, 1936 v 2 Sheots- -Shut 1 INVENTOR April 12, 1938.] I II-LLQSUTCLIFFE 2,113,954

vn-zm' sacs 1m lamnob ,oF MAKING sum Filed April 30, 1936 2 Sheath-511.0% 2

' INVENTOR .SzzZcZaY/IP I ATTORNEY Patented Aprt lz 1938 the principal factor mitigating g is:

wearing qualities, aretoo'well known to require more than brief mention. H'oweventhe same structural characteristics which. obtain these ad-- vantages have also been responsible for their greater weight and relative stillness compared to otheritypesofshoes. 9 I

In making welt shoes it hasfor many years been the standard practice to attach the margins of the upper partsandthetwelt-byin'seam stitchlug to theroot of an integral rib extendingfrom the margin oftheinsolatheribzbeing formed by a pair of channel: leaves .or lips erected from the surface of theinsoleandausually supplemented by the marginal portion of a' fabrici-insole reenforcement. The. resulting structure is therefore characterized; by a ;-wide iririge' comprising five or six plies of material which project from the inseam on the flesh side of the insole and form a stiff wall. between the sole members; the .plies comprising the inner'margins of the welt and of the upperand its lining.v the channel leaves or lips, and the outer margin of the fabric reenforcement.- 'I have found that this ridge is against flexibility in welted constructionasm 1. l

I It is a. principal object"of myinventionyth p;

fore, to provide. improved welt shoe havin': fewer. plies of material projecting perpendicularly I from the inseam, and an improved shoemaking method for obtainingrthis structuralaimprovepart of the shoe inwardly of 'the inseam. Such material contributes to deprive-the shoe of flexibility, adds to the weightofthe shoe bottom, and

is a frequent sourceof discomfort to the weare if the material'is injudiciouslyx'selected or im- Another principal object of my invention,

, therefore, isto providean improved, welt shoe in which all parts projecting at the inseam will terminate flush with the lower surface of the int {[siitoa" oi'FigureL shoe transversely divided at the forepart to show ginal shoulder 20 having height approximate y asap sm'rnonroarmmn. I

r; stance; v a

f Attrac s ham, mew net-1.16s I 1' schi m; (cue-+ 142 This invention relates to welted shoe construe-f between the stitches to further increase thefilexv ibility of the shoe.: Other and .further v jects will appear from the following specification;

, Referringtothe dra'wings'which form a part oi thisspeciflcation: r Figural is a'planvlew of a lip channeled insole prepared .inaccordance with my invention. a

Figure 2- isa longitudinal edgeelevationof the, insole prepared asshowninrlgurel. y v- Flgure 3 is a sectional view of thefinsole margin takenonlinel-Jofliigurel, r L Flgurea 'is-a, anview showing the insole, the welt and the upper parts assembled together on a last, the lip members and between substance of the insole being transversely slashed ,between l5 f stitches of the inseam to render the forepartof the shoemore flexible. I V a a ,Figure5 isa sectional viewtaken on line,

; Figure 6 is aperspeetive View. pa t y in section; illustrating the manner in which the slash cuts may be formed progressively as the is sewn. l v t Figure! is a see one! view showingthe relationship oi'theassembled parts after the inseam trimming operation has been performed. 7 c Figure 8 is a cross sectional view of the lasted shoe with the outsole attached, taken thru slash cuts at orabout line, Hof Figure 4. v Figure 9 is a perspective view of the finished the inseam construction in, cross section, a part of. the upper-being broken away at the toe portion to disclose the relation of the box re enforcement tothe other parts of the shoe.

. In carrying outmy invention 1. provide a rounded insole which is lipped and channeled torwardly of the heel entirely about the shank and forepart margi aproviding an inner channel leaf ii, and an outer-marginal lip' H. The channelis opened in the manner and the lip i1 is,

rolled back and adhesively secured over the between substance I! located between the rootsof the members ll and I'I,Ythereby forming 9, mardouble the-thickness of the lip "and exposing a marginal feather II. I maythen adhesively secure a layer of fabric". such as canvas or duck, to the channeled surface of the insole, the margins of the fabric extending to face and reiii enforce the leaf. and overextendingthe'edges of the leaf substantially as shown. y

After the" lip is turned back, I prefer to reduce the feather about the toe portion 22 of the insole, as best illustrated in Figure 2, to compen- 28 of the shoe.

sate for the greater thickness of the upper parts occasioned by the insertion of the usual box toe reenforcement 31. The reduced portion of the feather merges with the unreduced portions thereof on a long slope I! so that the varying thickness of the upper parts adjacent the skived rearward edge of the box toe reenforcement will be evenly accommodated.

Prepared as above described, the insole is tacked channeled-'side-up to the bottom of a last 30 and the upper parts are pulled over the last onto the feather 2i and agalnstthe shoulder extends thru the welt, the upper parts, the between substance and the fabric into the channel 20 II, the upper parts including the lining 36 and the box toe reenforcement 31.

The lip I'I turned in and secured against the insole increases the marginal thickness of the insole and would ordinarily increase the stiffness Therefore, as best shown in Figures 4 and 6, I prefer to make a plurality of transverse slash cuts 45-4! through the inner portion of the seam comprising the upstanding edge margin of the fabric insole reenforcement, the channel leaf, the between substance, and the lip. These slash cuts preferably extend to a depth corresponding to the bottom 'of the inseam thread and may also extend thru the upper parts.

if desired. However, I prefer not to cut thru the 86 upper parts at the inseam althoughthe sweepof the slashing blademay pass thru the untrimmed surplus portions of the upper parts as shown.

The cuts 45 are formed progressively as the inseam is sewn in the manner taught in my cofiled application Serial No. 77,103, a out being made in advance of each stitch. The procedure followed is best illustrated in Figure 6 in which a hand stitched seam is shown in the course of its formation. 'After the completion .of a stitch, an

awl hole is formed for the reception of the next stitch; a transverse slash cut is then made inter- I mediate the stitch and the awl hole, whereupon the next stitch is formed, and so on entirely about the inseam or such parts thereof as may be de- 5 sired, any temporary lasting tacks being removed. I have illustrated the slash cuts as formed only at the margins of the ball. portion of the shoe, leaving the seam comparatively stiff throughout the shank and toe portions where great flexibility s5 is neither necessary nor desirable. I g

After the inseam has been sewn and before th surplus material projecting therefrom has been trimmed away, the channel leaf ll, together with the facing marginal portion of the reenforcement 00 23, is cemented down over the stitching to close the channel It, thereby protecting the inside stitching and permanently holding the inseam in position to enhance the shape holding qualities of the shoe. Because the double thickness of fabric 06 now lies in the channel, the leaf is somewhat foreshortened and its edge will not quite extend to fill the portion of the channel from which it was removed. However, the edge margin of the fabric 23 overextending the edge of the leaf will merge 10 into the shallow inner portion ofthe channel, smoothly filling it as shown in dotted lines in Figure 5.

The remaining material projecting from the insole at the inseam is then trimmed away on a 1 line coincident with the surface of the welt and the reenforced surface of the insole, substantially parallel with the bottom of the last but safelyabove the inseam stitching 42, a portion of the lip ll being removed by the trimming cutter so that a smooth and flush surface is obtained, as 5 shown in Figure .7. The trimming operation may be performed by hand or by means of a standard inseam trimming machine. However, I prefer to employ an inseam trimming machine equipped as described in the co-flled application of Edward 19 Quinn,'8erial No. 77,105.

It will be observed that by laying down the leaf ll and the margin of the fabric 23, the number of the projecting plies ,of material is substantially reduced in comparison with welt shoes as usually 5 constructed. Also, that the trimmed edges of the welt and upper parts do not extend above the central surface area of the insole, so that there are no surface inequalities to be compensated for by filler material. Regarded in one aspect, the g seam may be compared to the seam in a shoulder channeled turned shoe wherein: the channel leaf is closed down over the stitching, although in such shoes the leaf cannot be adhesivelysecured in position because of the wet condition in which a a turn sole is lasted. a

The shoe is completed by, securing an outsole I to the welt, asby the outer line of stitching ll, attaching a heel if, assembling a sock lining BI, and performing such other usual and necessary a operations. I

In the finished shoe it will be found that the outsole lies flush under the channel leaf and inseam aswell as under the welt and the reenforced insole, no gutters, ridges, or creases existing between the sole members and no filler being required or desirable, although a thin layer of material may be interposed between the sole members to reduce frictionbetween them or to waterproof the shoe bottom, any. such layer preferably over- 40 extending the channel leaf.

It will also be noted that the welt and the upper parts are all secured to the insole above a line parallel with the last and coincident with the lower face of the insole reenforcement, even 5 about the toe portion where the thickness of the upper parts is increased by the box toe reenforcement 31, so that the inner surface of the shoe bottom is evenly supported over its entire area. Devoid of flller material and having a comparatively light inseam construction, the shoe is inherently light and flexible, its flexible qualities being enhanced by the transverse slash cuts extending thru the assembled parts at the ball portion.

I desire to have it understood that where the insole is not required to be reenforced, the fabric 23 may be entirely dispensed with, in which case the channel leaf will not'be foreshortened materially and .will flll .the channel completely. so

If desired, the flexibility and wearing qualities of the shoe may be further enhanced by employing an insole having a skeletonized forepart and a complemental out-sole of the type taught in U. 3. Patent No. 2,012,914 granted to Fred Mac- 05 carone, or as taught in his application Serial No. 57,715 filed January 6,1936, such modifications being within the scope of the appended claims;

Wherever the upper" is referred to in the appended claims itis intended to include any lining, plumping or reinforcing material, and wherever the insole" is recited in the claims it is intended to include any insole reinforcing such as is commonly employed in making welt shoes.

I claim: 76

the insole against said shoulder in inseamed re- 1. A shoe comprising an insole having a marginal lip, a stitch channel extending parallel with the lip inwardly thereof, and an integral leaf for said channel, said lip being turned in against the lower surface of the insole and adhesively secured thereto to form a firm marginal shoulder, an upper, awelt, stitching securing the upper and welt against saidshouiderand extending into said channel, adhesive securing said leaf in the chan- 1 l0 nel to protect the stitching and to brace the a seam secured thereby, the inturned portion of said lip being skived and lying flush with said leaf and with said welt and forming an integral marginal filler, and an outsole secured to said welt.

2. A shoe comprising an insole having a mar- ,ginal lip, said lip being turned in against the lower surface of the insole and adhesively secured thereto to form a firm marginal shoulder, an upper and a welt secured against said shoulder, and an outsole secured to the welt, the inturned portion of said lip of the insole being skived and: lying flush with the central portion of the lower surface of the insole and with said welt and forming an integral marginal filler.

channelfto protect the stitching and to brace 1 the seam secured thereby, the inturned portion of said lip being skived and lying flush with said leaf and with said welt and forming an integral marginal filler, said insole having a plurality of 4o slash cuts formed in the lower surface-thereof extending outwardlyfrom the bottom of said channel and thru the lip between stitches, and

an outsole secured to said welt.

4. A shoe comprising an insole having a marginal'lip, said lip being turned in against the lower surface of the insole and adhesively secured therea to to form a firm marginal shoulder having height greater than the thickness of the lip, an upper and a welt secured againstsaid shoulder, said so insole having a plurality of slash cuts formed therein extending thru the shouldered portion thereof and thru said lip, the inturnedportion of said lip being skived and lying flush with the central portion of the lower surface of the insole and with said welt and forming an integral marginal filler, and an outsole secured to said welt. 5. In methods of making welt shoes, that improvement which comprises providing an insole having a marginal lip, a stitch channel extend-f 6 ing parallel with the lip inwardly thereof, and

an integral leaf for said channel, the lip being turned inwardly and adhesively secured to the insole to form a firm marginal shoulder having depth greater than the thickness of the lip,

0 stitching the margins ofan upper and a welt to welt.

' having an integral marginal lip turned inwardly inturned portion of said lip and to cut off any lation, said stitching being extended into the. channel, adhesively securing said leaf in the channel to protect the stitching and to brace the I inseam secured thereby, trimming in a plane 5 coincident with the surfaces of the welt and said leaf to remove part of the inturned portion of said lip and to cut off any surplus of said upper and welt, and securing an outsole to the welt.

6. In methods of making welt shoes, that improvement which comprises providing an'insole having an integral'marginal lip, the lip being turned inwardly and adhesively secured to the insole to form a firm marginal shoulder having depth greater than the thickness of thelip, securing the marginsof an upper and a welt to the insole against said shoulder, trimming in a plane coincident with the surface of the welt and said leaf to remove part of the inturned portion of said lip and to cut oil any surplus of said upper an'd welt, and securing an outsole to the g 7. In methods of making weltshoes, that improvement which comprises providing an insole and adhesively secured to the insole and forming a marginal shoulder having depth greater than the thickness of the lip, securing the margins of an upper and a welt to the insole against said shoulder, cutting a plurality of incisions in the margin of the insole said incisions being. extended thru said lip andtto the depth of the shoulder,

trimming in a plane coincident with the surface of "the welt and said leaf to remove-part-of the surplus of said upper and welt, and securing an' outsole to the welt.

8. In methods of making welt shoes, that improvement which comprises providing an insole having a marginal lip, a stitch channel extend- 1 ing parallel with the lip inwardly thereof, and an integral leaf for said channel, the lip being turned inwardly and adhesively secured to the insole and forming a marginal shoulder-and a marginal feather, said feather being reduced 45 about the toe portion of the insole and merging with the unreduced feather on a long angle corresponding to the skived edges of a box toe reinforcement, securing the margins of an upper together with the box toe'reenforcement and ago welt to the insole against said shoulder in inseamed relation, the stitches of the sewing thread being extended intothe channel. and cutting a plurality of slash cuts in the margin of the-insole between stitches of the inseam thread, said slash cuts extending outwardly of the channel thru said lip to a depthcorresponding with the bottom of the channel, adhesively securing said leaf in the channel, trimming in a plane coincident with the surface of the welt and said leaf to remove part of the inturned portion of said lip and to cut oil any surplus of said upper and welt, and securing an outsole to the welt; 

